Der auferstandene Herr spricht: “Friede sei mit Euch.”
Fürchte dich nicht! Ich bin der Erste und der Letzte und der Lebendige. Ich war tot, und siehe, ich bin lebendig von Ewigkeit zu Ewigkeit und habe die Schlüssel des Todes und der Hölle.
Offenbarung 1,17-18
Magdalenenaltar: “Die Auferstehung Christi” (Aschaffenburg). Lucas Cranach Werkstatt (1520-1525)
Wir singen das evangelische Osterlied:
Jesus Christus, unser Heiland, der den Tod überwand, ist auferstanden, die Sünd hat er gefangen. Kyrie eleison.
Der ohn Sünden war geboren, trug für uns Gottes Zorn, hat uns versöhnet, dass Gott uns sein Huld gönnet. Kyrie eleison.
Tod, Sünd, Leben und auch Gnad, alls in Händen er hat; er kann erretten alle, die zu ihm treten. Kyrie eleison.
Martin Luther 1524 (LKG 157)
Fortlaufende Lese
Seid niemandem etwas schuldig, außer dass ihr euch untereinander liebt; denn wer den andern liebt, der hat das Gesetz erfüllt. 9 Denn was da gesagt ist: »Du sollst nicht ehebrechen; du sollst nicht töten; du sollst nicht stehlen; du sollst nicht begehren«, und was da sonst an Geboten ist, das wird in diesem Wort zusammengefasst: »Du sollst deinen Nächsten lieben wie dich selbst.« 10 Die Liebe tut dem Nächsten nichts Böses. So ist nun die Liebe des Gesetzes Erfüllung.
11 Und das tut, weil ihr die Zeit erkannt habt, dass die Stunde da ist, aufzustehen vom Schlaf, denn unser Heil ist jetzt näher als zu der Zeit, da wir gläubig wurden. 12 Die Nacht ist vorgerückt, der Tag ist nahe herbeigekommen. So lasst uns ablegen die Werke der Finsternis und anlegen die Waffen des Lichts. 13 Lasst uns ehrbar leben wie am Tage, nicht in Fressen und Saufen, nicht in Unzucht und Ausschweifung, nicht in Hader und Neid; 14 sondern zieht an den Herrn Jesus Christus und sorgt für den Leib nicht so, dass ihr den Begierden verfallt.
Römer 13:8-14
Tageslese
So legt nun ab alle Bosheit und allen Betrug und Heuchelei und Neid und alle üble Nachrede 2 und seid begierig nach der vernünftigen lauteren Milch wie die neugeborenen Kindlein, auf dass ihr durch sie wachset zum Heil, 3 da ihr schon geschmeckt habt, dass der Herr freundlich ist. 4 Zu ihm kommt als zu dem lebendigen Stein, der von den Menschen verworfen ist, aber bei Gott auserwählt und kostbar. 5 Und auch ihr als lebendige Steine erbaut euch zum geistlichen Hause und zur heiligen Priesterschaft, zu opfern geistliche Opfer, die Gott wohlgefällig sind durch Jesus Christus. 6 Darum steht in der Schrift: »Siehe, ich lege in Zion einen auserwählten, kostbaren Eckstein; und wer an ihn glaubt, der soll nicht zuschanden werden.« 7 Für euch nun, die ihr glaubt, ist er kostbar. Für die aber, die nicht glauben, ist er »der Stein, den die Bauleute verworfen haben; der ist zum Eckstein geworden« 8 und »ein Stein des Anstoßes und ein Fels des Ärgernisses« Sie stoßen sich an ihm, weil sie nicht an das Wort glauben, wozu sie auch bestimmt sind. 9 Ihr aber seid ein auserwähltes Geschlecht, ein königliches Priestertum, ein heiliges Volk, ein Volk zum Eigentum, dass ihr verkündigen sollt die Wohltaten dessen, der euch berufen hat aus der Finsternis in sein wunderbares Licht; 10 die ihr einst nicht sein Volk wart, nun aber Gottes Volk seid, und einst nicht in Gnaden wart, nun aber in Gnaden seid.
1. Petrus 2,1-10
Wir beten mit der heiligen Christenheit:
Herr, Gott himmlischer Vater, der Du Deinen eingeborenen Sohn um unserer Sünde willen hingegeben und uns zur Gerechtigkeit hast wieder auferwecket, wir bitten Deine Barmherzigkeit, Du wollest unsere Herzen durch Deinen Geist zu neuem Leben erwecken und unsere Leiber dort mit Christus ewig lebendig machen. Durch Jesus Christus unseren Herrn, der mit Dir und dem Heiligen Geist, ein wahrer Gott, lebet und regieret in Ewigkeit. Amen.
Orate fratres S.131f
Es segne und behüte Euch Gott, der allmächtige und barmherzige, der Vater, Sohn + Heiliger Geist
Waking in Bethlehem is quite something. Not just the old biblical surrounds, also the current political controversies amongst the main role players make it all rather exiting – jewish settlers, Palestinian terrorists (or freedom fighters!) and a small Christian minority to complicate the mix. This first day in Bethlehem we were planing to visit Jerusalem – and just like our good Lord – go in and come back for the night, just to return the next day again.
Trendtours “on the way with friendly people”
The various meals were good times to connect with the fellow travellers. Normally, there were long rows of tables set with plates and cutlery. Food was laid out on a buffet and coffee machines were placed for convenience. We normally had a good hour for the meals, but I was done after half that. Angelika skipped breakfast and rather concentrated on getting her writing done, coffee and hair too. There was an elderly couple (Gerd and ?), who sat across the aisle in the bus. They were not game to swim in the Dead Sea, nor did they want to go for walks in the evening after supper. Still, they were a friendly couple and I enjoyed their company. Two older women (over eighty) from around Wiesbaden, were friends and did these trips together for some years already. The elder of the two, was rather assertive towards Eayd and worked hard at getting things straightened out. The younger was a avid photographer. Both were game for everything and on the ball. A mother (over seventy) and her married son (in the late forties) came from the Schwarzwald and did this tour together, because the daughter/sister had found a friend and dropped out. She was an ardent catholic and he somewhat of a sceptic. Another couple, was retired. He had his knee replaced, was working hard at keeping it moving even as he walked with a stick. He was a confessing catholic. Drank beer and we sat under the olive trees in the back yard of the hotel discussing politics, religion and other interesting topics. His wife was a religious instructor in some school. She was rather involved in church in her earlier days, but had lately come of it as she put it. And so it went on and on. Each one of these pairs were good company. I enjoyed the discussions, but the were all rather short lived and without much consequence. A bit too short winded. I rather miss these people already. Perhaps I should have tried to create a chat group and organise a follow-up in Wittenberg. Perhaps it is not even too late for that now. We will see.
The bus drove us up through the old town of Bethlehem. We took the first left into Hebron Road and passed Rachel´s tomb. The high wall fencing off the W.Bank from Israel proper was quite a sight. Much higher than the Berlin Wall and most other walls I know. In some places it is but a fence, but in others the concrete slabs are very effective. We passed some security check point, where a Israeli soldier – every time a friendly woman! – checked the passport of a single tourist. That was enough for all. Our tour guide was usually rather tense, but there was no trouble. It did not take too much time either. Nothing in comparison with the old crossing into the DDR, but much more similar to road blocks in South Africa, where police search for weapons, aliens and stolen cars. It seems as if the roads in Jerusalem are under heavy construction. We saw stadiums, many high risers in beautiful white sandstone, cypress tress and hanging gardens again and again. It was all topped by blue skies and reminded me again and again of Israels national flag. (cf. Greece)
In Jerusalem we stopped on the Mount of Olives. We got off the bus and enjoyed the morning view across the old city of Jerusalem. Eayd had to get Erika on track and the rest of us moving. So, after some time, he eventually stopped a taxi and had her drive to Gethsemane and the church of all nations. We did not get to go and see the orthodox church of Mary Magdalene, but we saw its beauty from a distance. Eayd took some time to elaborate the historical site spreading before us. It started with the Jewish cemetery and ended with the many church stepples, minarettes and other landmarks in the old city.
We walked down hill between the high walls of the cemetery and the grounds of many gardens – like around the church of “Dominus flevit“. What a spectacular view and what impressive architectural design by the Italian architect Antonio Barluzzi. The place is held in trust by the Franciscan Custody of the Holy Land. No wonder so many tour groups come here to look over Jerusalem. This is really spectacular.
And when Jesus drew near and saw the city, he wept over it, 42 saying, “Would that you, even you, had known on this day the things that make for peace! But now they are hidden from your eyes. 43 For the days will come upon you, when your enemies will set up a barricade around you and surround you and hem you in on every side 44 and tear you down to the ground, you and your children within you. And they will not leave one stone upon another in you, because you did not know the time of your visitation.”
Luke 19:41-44
Moving further down the mount of Olives, we enjoyed the proximity of the church of Mary Magdalene, where the relics of two martyred saints, Grand Duchess Elizabeth Feodorovna of Russia and her fellow nun Varvara Yakovleva are displayed. The Grand Duchess is the aunt of Princess Alice of Battenberg, mother of the Duke of Edinburgh, who at her wish was buried near her aunt “Ella”. You see, Jerusalem really has serious history – and it is often closer to home, that we imagine and I don´t just mean the old Hessian connection, which is close to our Weber´s Eisenberg connection.
The Church of Mary Magdalene
After some walking this crisp spring morning, we came to the garden of Gethsemane with its ancient olive trees and wonderful church. Our guide got into trouble, because he just could not refrain from chatting away. Outside, he had warned us, that he would have to remain silent, because the priests inside the church were very strict. However, he never stopped talking and then nearly got into a brawl with the priests and the guards called in to silence him. Well, that got us all exited and nicely fluffed up. Anyway, I really liked this site and to think, that our good Lord had been here in the night, when he was betrayed…
And they came to a place which was named Gethsemane: and Jesus saith to his disciples, Sit ye here, while I shall pray. 33 And he taketh with him Peter and James and John, and began to be sore amazed, and to be very heavy; 34 And saith unto them, My soul is exceeding sorrowful unto death: tarry ye here, and watch. 35 And he went forward a little, and fell on the ground, and prayed that, if it were possible, the hour might pass from him. 36 And he said, Abba, Father, all things are possible unto thee; take away this cup from me: nevertheless not what I will, but what thou wilt. 37 And he cometh, and findeth them sleeping, and saith unto Peter, Simon, sleepest thou? couldest not thou watch one hour? 38 Watch ye and pray, lest ye enter into temptation. The spirit truly is ready, but the flesh is weak. 39 And again he went away, and prayed, and spake the same words. 40 And when he returned, he found them asleep again, (for their eyes were heavy,) neither wist they what to answer him. 41 And he cometh the third time, and saith unto them, Sleep on now, and take your rest: it is enough, the hour is come; behold, the Son of man is betrayed into the hands of sinners. 42 Rise up, let us go; lo, he that betrayeth me is at hand.
We visited the church of the holy Sepulchre, where various dominations (Orthodox, Coptic and Catholic) keep the holy site of Christ´s crucifiction and burial under muslim auspices. It is quite a business, but I got to shake the Ethiopian patriarch´s hand. Some might think the various churches are just a curse, but I think, there might actually be a blessing in it too. “No lording it over others” for one, and they can act as check and balances to prevent the dominance of one and promote the true service of “feet washing” for those waiting to pray at this holy site.
An upper room, where Jesus is supposed to have instituted his supper, later served a bleak mosque. Down below is the tomb of King David – an active synagog and we see the Tower of David. Ongoing the struggle for meaning – just as St. John points out:
Many of the people therefore, when they heard this saying, said, Of a truth this is the Prophet. 41 Others said, This is the Christ. But some said, Shall Christ come out of Galilee? 42 Hath not the scripture said, That Christ cometh of the seed of David, and out of the town of Bethlehem, where David was? 43 So there was a division among the people because of him.
John 7:40-43
The many sights and sounds in Jerusalem are rather overwhelming and words hardly do justice to the drama that has unfolded here – then and over the ages. We move on to Jaffa Gate and try to understand, what we are experiencing. Sometimes listening in on the audiobook read by John Lee: Simon Sebag Montefiore´s “Jerusalem. The Biography”. This depicts masterfully the many layers Jerusalem consists of. Moving around the old city is just like scratching around in the dust even as below are literally countless layers of history covered up and hidden from sight. There are lots of reasons to return to Jerusalem again and again. It actually felt to me like reading the Bible in another dimension, that had previously eluded me, but it encourages me to read the holy Scriptures more carefully and diligently than before. After all, we Lutherans did not just defend the sola scriptura against the traditional papists, but also against those, still waiting for the Messiah plus those, who deny the divinity of God´s only begotten Son conceived by the Holy Spirit and born of the holy Mother of God – Mary of Nazareth. Obviously it is quite an uphill battle to argue against the muslims, who occupy the Temple Mount and imposed their prayer places at the centre of the world. A serious “theologia crucis” is called for – just as Bo Giertz did paradigmatically in his moving novel: “The Knights of Rhodos.” If at Stammtisch in Wittenberg these discussions might seem pretty far from reality, walking around Jerusalem pushes these crucial issues right into Your face. There is no way around it. Face it. High time to polish up on my Hebrew. That seems a life long task and I am glad, that it is still day to read, learn and contemplate God´s living Word, which remains for ever.
Back in Bethlehem, the city of David, where the little baby Jesus was born, we go down on our knees and enter the magnificent church of the Nativity – finally. Obviously, we should have also visited the fields, where the shepherds had watched over their flocks when the angel host appeard to them. Eusebius comments how even back in his days, they were arguing about the exact location. Sounds much like theologians today arguing about where Luther nailed those Theses. It was a long day and I am looking forward to the next one, hoping one day to visit the Bethlehem outskirts and walk those pastures with Beduin shepherds. Perhaps they are Christian to this day? After all it is decisive as St. Peter points out:
Then Peter, filled with the Holy Ghost, said unto them, Ye rulers of the people, and elders of Israel, 9 If we this day be examined of the good deed done to the impotent man, by what means he is made whole; 10 Be it known unto you all, and to all the people of Israel, that by the name of Jesus Christ of Nazareth, whom ye crucified, whom God raised from the dead, even by him doth this man stand here before you whole. 11 This is the stone which was set at nought of you builders, which is become the head of the corner. 12 Neither is there salvation in any other: for there is none other name under heaven given among men, whereby we must be saved.
Fürchte dich nicht! Ich bin der Erste und der Letzte und der Lebendige. Ich war tot, und siehe, ich bin lebendig von Ewigkeit zu Ewigkeit und habe die Schlüssel des Todes und der Hölle.
Offenbarung 1,17-18
Antiphonary (Italy, Milan 15th century): “Risen Christ in the Tomb” (Cleveland Museum of Art)
Wir singen das lutherischen Osterlied:
So feiern wir das hoh Fest mit Herzensfreud und Wonne, das uns der Herr scheinen lässt. Er ist selber die Sonne, der durch seiner Gnaden Glanz erleucht’ unsre Herzen ganz; der Sünden Nacht ist vergangen. Halleluja.
Wir essen und leben wohl, zum süßen Brot geladen; der alte Sau’rteig nicht soll sein bei dem Wort der Gnaden. Christus will die Kost uns sein und speisen die Seel allein; der Glaub will keins andern leben. Halleluja.
Nach dem mittelalterlichen “Victimae paschali laudes” des Wipo (990-1048) und dem vorreformatorischen Liede “Christ ist erstanden” von Martin Luther 1524 (LKG 156,6-7)
Fortlaufende Lese
Jedermann sei untertan der Obrigkeit, die Gewalt über ihn hat. Denn es ist keine Obrigkeit außer von Gott; wo aber Obrigkeit ist, ist sie von Gott angeordnet. 2 Darum: Wer sich der Obrigkeit widersetzt, der widerstrebt Gottes Anordnung; die ihr aber widerstreben, werden ihr Urteil empfangen. 3 Denn die Gewalt haben, muss man nicht fürchten wegen guter, sondern wegen böser Werke. Willst du dich aber nicht fürchten vor der Obrigkeit, so tue Gutes, dann wirst du Lob von ihr erhalten. 4 Denn sie ist Gottes Dienerin, dir zugut. Tust du aber Böses, so fürchte dich; denn sie trägt das Schwert nicht umsonst. Sie ist Gottes Dienerin und vollzieht die Strafe an dem, der Böses tut. 5 Darum ist es notwendig, sich unterzuordnen, nicht allein um der Strafe, sondern auch um des Gewissens willen. 6 Deshalb zahlt ihr ja auch Steuer; denn sie sind Gottes Diener, auf diesen Dienst beständig bedacht. 7 So gebt nun jedem, was ihr schuldig seid: Steuer, dem die Steuer gebührt; Zoll, dem der Zoll gebührt; Furcht, dem die Furcht gebührt; Ehre, dem die Ehre gebührt.
Römer 13, 1-7
Tageslese
Denn auch Christus hat einmal für die Sünden gelitten, der Gerechte für die Ungerechten, damit er euch zu Gott führte; er ist getötet nach dem Fleisch, aber lebendig gemacht nach dem Geist. 19 In ihm ist er auch hingegangen und hat gepredigt den Geistern im Gefängnis, 20 die einst ungehorsam waren, als Gott in Geduld ausharrte zur Zeit Noahs, als man die Arche baute, in der wenige, nämlich acht Seelen, gerettet wurden durchs Wasser hindurch. 21 Das ist ein Vorbild der Taufe, die jetzt auch euch rettet. Denn in ihr wird nicht der Schmutz vom Leib abgewaschen, sondern wir bitten Gott um ein gutes Gewissen, durch die Auferstehung Jesu Christi, 22 welcher ist zur Rechten Gottes, aufgefahren gen Himmel, und es sind ihm untertan die Engel und die Gewalten und die Mächte.
1. Petrus 3,18-22
Wir beten mit der heiligen Christenheit:
Herr, Gott himmlischer Vater, der Du Deinen eingeborenen Sohn um unserer Sünde willen hingegeben und uns zur Gerechtigkeit hast wieder auferwecket, wir bitten Deine Barmherzigkeit, Du wollest unsere Herzen durch Deinen Geist zu neuem Leben erwecken und unsere Leiber dort mit Christus ewig lebendig machen. Durch Jesus Christus unseren Herrn, der mit Dir und dem Heiligen Geist, ein wahrer Gott, lebet und regieret in Ewigkeit. Amen.
Orate fratres S.131f
Es segne und behüte Euch Gott, der allmächtige und barmherzige, der Vater, Sohn + Heiliger Geist
From Bethlehem we went up to Jerusalem and then down to Jericho – quite opposite to the direction taken by the good Samaritan. We had Masada, Qumran with the “Dead Sea scrolls“, the Dead Sea and Jericho on our agenda. Much to do and on a very tight schedule.
We started off with tasing some of the local specialities: Medjoul dates from Jericho. Quite delicious! The views along the road were magnificent. We travelled through arid mountains. Beduin camps here and there. Sometimes we saw goat herds. Sometimes off roaders conquering the landscape. Down at sea level, we turned off to the South and headed down along the Qumran mountains on the right/west having the Dead Sea on the other side. We saw flocks of storks, eagles, hawks and other birds, but also serious erosion – much like in desert landscapes anywhere.
Masada was a great attraction at the bottom of the Dead Sea. I would have surely run up the mountain if I had been on my own, but now we took the cable car, which made for some impressive vistas across the Dead Sea. It took some time before I checked the airport, but the ongoing surveillance flights made it impossible to oversee it indefinitely. The fortress of Masada is impressive, just as the Jewish resistance movement, which takes up the cry of the defenders in the Warsaw ghetto: “Never again without resistance!” and “We won´t go down without resistance!” – and therefore, “Never again a Masada!” Committing suicide and doing the work for the aggressor, is just not an option for any independent nation and people. Strange how relevant these slogans remain even as big bullies like Russia continue to through their weight around, terrorizing and committing genocide against independent nations like Georgia, Ukraine and Crimea just because they think, that they can get away with murder.
After Lunch in Qumran, we went to swim in the Dead Sea. I would have really liked to visit the Jordan Archaeological Museum in Amman or even the Jordan Museum in Ras al Ein, but that did not work out this time. It´s part of the conundrum of this political war zone, where the Arabs just don´t give the Jews space to breathe.
In Jericho we did most sightseeing from the bus – like the tree of Zacchaeus. Still, we did get out to see the site of Jesus temptation up where the cloister is today. We did not land up in a political demonstration nor in a protest march of any kind. That counts for obvious blessings +
Back in Bethlehem, we had supper. Enjoyed the company of our fellow German tourists and then decided to go up to the church of the Nativity with some eager beavers from our group. This time we went into the proper direction and crossed the Hebron Road and followed the narrow street to our goal. Along the way a German protestant church in “Children´s street” was hosting the same “Bethlehem singers”, that had previously entertained us up in Nazareth. The church was also full with listeners, but not even close to the number praying outside the mosque up in town this Ramadan. We got to the church of the nativity, which was all closed up at this time. I imagine, it the Franciscan convent, which operates a guesthouse there, could be a very convenient venue for a longer visit in future. We enjoyed fresh fruit – like the luquats (Wollmispel) – from the street vendors. My german friends did not know them. We were reminded of home.
Der auferstandene Herr Jesus Christus spricht: “Pax vobiscum.”
Fürchte dich nicht! Ich bin der Erste und der Letzte und der Lebendige. Ich war tot, und siehe, ich bin lebendig von Ewigkeit zu Ewigkeit und habe die Schlüssel des Todes und der Hölle.
Es war ein wunderlich Krieg, da Tod und Leben ‘rungen; das Leben behielt den Sieg, es hat den Tod verschlungen. Die Schrift hat verkündet das, wie ein Tod den andern fraß, ein Spott aus dem Tod ist worden. Halleluja.
Hier ist das recht Osterlamm, davon Gott hat geboten, das ist an des Kreuzes Stamm in heißer Lieb gebraten. Des Blut zeichnet unsre Tür, das hält der Glaub dem Tod für, der Würger kann uns nicht rühren. Halleluja.
Nach dem mittelalterlichen “Victimae paschali laudes” des Wipo (990-1048) und dem vorreformatorischen Liede “Christ ist erstanden” von Martin Luther 1524 (LKG 156,4-5)
Fortlaufende Lese
Vergeltet niemandem Böses mit Bösem. Seid auf Gutes bedacht gegenüber jedermann. 18 Ist’s möglich, soviel an euch liegt, so habt mit allen Menschen Frieden. 19 Rächt euch nicht selbst, meine Lieben, sondern gebt Raum dem Zorn Gottes; denn es steht geschrieben: »Die Rache ist mein; ich will vergelten, spricht der Herr.« 20 Vielmehr, »wenn deinen Feind hungert, so gib ihm zu essen; dürstet ihn, so gib ihm zu trinken. Wenn du das tust, so wirst du feurige Kohlen auf sein Haupt sammeln« 21 Lass dich nicht vom Bösen überwinden, sondern überwinde das Böse mit Gutem.
Römer 12:17-21
Tageslese
Maria aber stand draußen vor dem Grab und weinte. Als sie nun weinte, beugte sie sich in das Grab hinein 12 und sieht zwei Engel in weißen Gewändern sitzen, einen zu Häupten und den andern zu den Füßen, wo der Leichnam Jesu gelegen hatte. 13 Und die sprachen zu ihr: Frau, was weinst du? Sie spricht zu ihnen: Sie haben meinen Herrn weggenommen, und ich weiß nicht, wo sie ihn hingelegt haben. 14 Und als sie das sagte, wandte sie sich um und sieht Jesus stehen und weiß nicht, dass es Jesus ist. 15 Spricht Jesus zu ihr: Frau, was weinst du? Wen suchst du? Sie meint, es sei der Gärtner, und spricht zu ihm: Herr, hast du ihn weggetragen, so sage mir: Wo hast du ihn hingelegt? Dann will ich ihn holen. 16 Spricht Jesus zu ihr: Maria! Da wandte sie sich um und spricht zu ihm auf Hebräisch: Rabbuni!, das heißt: Meister! 17 Spricht Jesus zu ihr: Rühre mich nicht an! Denn ich bin noch nicht aufgefahren zum Vater. Geh aber hin zu meinen Brüdern und sage ihnen: Ich fahre auf zu meinem Vater und eurem Vater, zu meinem Gott und eurem Gott. 18 Maria Magdalena geht und verkündigt den Jüngern: »Ich habe den Herrn gesehen«, und was er zu ihr gesagt habe.
Johannes 20:11-18
Wir beten mit der heiligen Christenheit:
Herr, Gott himmlischer Vater, der Du Deinen eingeborenen Sohn um unserer Sünde willen hingegeben und uns zur Gerechtigkeit hast wieder auferwecket, wir bitten Deine Barmherzigkeit, Du wollest unsere Herzen durch Deinen Geist zu neuem Leben erwecken und unsere Leiber dort mit Christus ewig lebendig machen. Durch Jesus Christus unseren Herrn, der mit Dir und dem Heiligen Geist, ein wahrer Gott, lebet und regieret in Ewigkeit. Amen.
Orate fratres S.131f
Es segne und behüte Euch Gott, der allmächtige und barmherzige, der Vater, Sohn + Heiliger Geist +
Sunday morning in Nazareth gets started with a lot of bells and ringing. The loud cries of the muezzin for Friday prayers are nearly forgotten. The Sabbath is over and it is the new day, the Lord has made. We are on the road early. So early in fact, that the priest at Cana´s church, where Jesus changed water into wine is not even back yet from the bakery. We stand in front of closed doors. The sign reads, that the church is closed on Sundays. That is a disappointment. Throughout town they advertise the wine from Cana, but the church is locked. I go up and down the narrow isle, hoping to catch a better glimpse of this site, where Jesus performed his first miracle. That is where I come across the priest with the buns and rolls from the bakery. We get him to open up and suddenly, the day looks even brighter.
From Cana we leave for the Sea of Galilee (See Genezareth). It is very much like travelling the high veld. Lots of green pastures, rough mountains, plantations and fields. We have got a number of sights to see on this Sunday – all of which featured prominently in the life of our Lord Jesus Christ. First we go to the sight, where he proclaimed the sermon of the Mount. The place is owned by the Catholics. They have put up an impressive chapel on the Mount of the Beatitudes. There were African rose-ringed parakeets up in the palm trees, lots of blooming orange trees and visitors from all over. I talked to groups from Porto Rico (Spanish) and from South Korea. They were all treading in Jesus footsteps. For me that was one of the highlights. Jesus calling his disciples on the beach of the Sea of Galilee – down at the orthodox chapel – and sending them to the ends of the world. Now, centuries later, I stand here where it all started and witness people coming from the very ends of the earth to see, what they believe.
The chapel of the Beatitudes has some nice mosaics and impressive views across the lake below – right across to the Golan heights in the East, but also over to Tiberias on the West coast. The place is expansive and I am so glad, that the Roman catholics and Greek Orthodox plus Armenians and other Christian sects take good care of these historic places – and we as Lutherans are not just left with some stark and empty muslim shrines like on the temple mount in Jerusalem. Here You can see the mosaic depicting bread and fish, where Jesus miraculously feed more than five thousand men without counting woman and children.
Down at the lake the Greek orthodox run a monastery of the holy Apostles, where Jesus sent out his disciples asking St. Peter thrice: “Do You love me?” I really like this church in its beautiful garden setting along the shores of the lake: “In 1995-2000, the church was painted by the Greek artist Konstantin Dzumakis. The walls of the church depict gospel scenes, many of which took place in Capernaum and its environs: the calming of the storm, Jesus walking on water, the amazing catch of fish from John 21, and Jesus healing the sick.”
Next door is an impressive Franciscan monastery, which takes care of the ruins at Capernaum and St. Peter´s Church there too. It´s situated on the site of St. Peter´s mother-in-law´s house. There are many ruins to be seen too. The old synagogue, which also suffered serious damage in the earth quakes of yesteryear (749 A.D). We drove to a nice park along the sea – ate “Peter´s fish” and even joined a boat tour on the lake. What a splash! That was before we got to some place along a river, where American Baptists go for their emotional washings. There were seriously big carp and barbel in the river, some beautiful birds in the trees, but the Baptists got most attention.
From here we left for Bethlehem in the South. It took some time. We visited a Kibbutz on the way. Very impressive dairy business and we got into a heated discussion on how happy cows should be in providing milk for the nations.
We drove through parts of the W.Bank, came down to Jericho, saw Beduin settlements, Israeli settlers too and drove up to Jerusalem and into the walled-off areas of Bethlehem, where we would stay the next three nights. The security doors and gates impressed me. They were often well crafted, heavy metal without anything to grip on, but mostly depicting crosses or other religious signs to show the affiliation of the owner. The signs were clear – and Cape Town is but 7, 517km away.
The first night in the Hotel “Nativity” Angelika and I walked through down town Bethlehem. This was quite a walk. We wanted to find the church of our Lord´s nativity, but I went off in the wrong direction, so in the end we found plenty churches, monasteries and christian schools, but not church of the nativity. It was perfectly safe even if the cars went about at breakneck speeds, the pavements were often blocked by men in black selling green almonds, smoking some tobacco, drinking coffee and discussing this or that in Palestinian/Arabic. At some fruit shop I tried to get directions. The young salesman did not get my English. So, that did not go far. Another boy tried to scare the shit out of us by exploding his crackers just behind our backs. Nothing serious, but he still had us nearly jump out of our skins. The next shots were then somewhat expected and nothing half as frightening as the first surprising ones. Somewhere in down town, we got some water. The salesman kept fifty shekels back, but when I complained to his old man, he quickly handed the rest of change over. Probably he thought, that he could get away with robbing a stupid tourist, but I was not having any of that kind of daylight robbery. Not even close to midnight in Bethlehem.
Der auferstandene Herr Jesus Christus spricht: “Pax vobiscum.”
Fürchte dich nicht! Ich bin der Erste und der Letzte und der Lebendige. Ich war tot, und siehe, ich bin lebendig von Ewigkeit zu Ewigkeit und habe die Schlüssel des Todes und der Hölle.
Offenbarung 1,17-18
Werkstatt Lucas Cranach des Jüngeren: Epitaph für Diepold von Schönfeldt mit der Auferstehung Christi (1562)
Christ lag in Todesbanden, für unsre Sünd gegeben, der ist wieder erstanden und hat uns bracht das Leben. Des wir sollen fröhlich sein, Gott loben und dankbar sein und singen Halleluja. Halleluja.
Den Tod niemand zwingen konnt bei allen Menschenkindern; das macht alles unsre Sünd, kein Unschuld war zu finden. Davon kam der Tod so bald und nahm über uns Gewalt, hielt uns in seim Reich gefangen. Halleluja.
Jesus Christus, Gottes Sohn, an unser Statt ist kommen und hat die Sünd abgetan, damit dem Tod genommen all sein Recht und sein Gewalt; da bleibt nichts denn Tods Gestalt, den Stachel hat er verloren. Halleluja.
Nach dem mittelalterlichen “Victimae paschali laudes” des Wipo (990-1048) und dem vorreformatorischen Liede “Christ ist erstanden” von Martin Luther 1524 (LKG 156,1-3)
Fortlaufende Lese
Die Liebe sei ohne Falsch. Hasst das Böse, hängt dem Guten an. 10 Die brüderliche Liebe untereinander sei herzlich. Einer komme dem andern mit Ehrerbietung zuvor. 11 Seid nicht träge in dem, was ihr tun sollt. Seid brennend im Geist. Dient dem Herrn. 12 Seid fröhlich in Hoffnung, geduldig in Trübsal, beharrlich im Gebet. 13 Nehmt euch der Nöte der Heiligen an. Übt Gastfreundschaft. 14 Segnet, die euch verfolgen; segnet, und verflucht sie nicht. 15 Freut euch mit den Fröhlichen, weint mit den Weinenden. 16 Seid eines Sinnes untereinander. Trachtet nicht nach hohen Dingen, sondern haltet euch zu den niedrigen. Haltet euch nicht selbst für klug.
Römer 12,9-16
Tageslese
Danach offenbarte sich Jesus abermals den Jüngern am See von Tiberias. Er offenbarte sich aber so: 2 Es waren beieinander Simon Petrus und Thomas, der Zwilling genannt wird, und Nathanael aus Kana in Galiläa und die Söhne des Zebedäus und zwei andere seiner Jünger. 3 Spricht Simon Petrus zu ihnen: Ich gehe fischen. Sie sprechen zu ihm: Wir kommen mit dir. Sie gingen hinaus und stiegen in das Boot, und in dieser Nacht fingen sie nichts. 4 Als es aber schon Morgen war, stand Jesus am Ufer, aber die Jünger wussten nicht, dass es Jesus war. 5 Spricht Jesus zu ihnen: Kinder, habt ihr nichts zu essen? Sie antworteten ihm: Nein. 6 Er aber sprach zu ihnen: Werft das Netz aus zur Rechten des Bootes, so werdet ihr finden. Da warfen sie es aus und konnten’s nicht mehr ziehen wegen der Menge der Fische. 7 Da spricht der Jünger, den Jesus lieb hatte, zu Petrus: Es ist der Herr! Als Simon Petrus hörte: »Es ist der Herr«, da gürtete er sich das Obergewand um, denn er war nackt, und warf sich in den See. 8 Die andern Jünger aber kamen mit dem Boot, denn sie waren nicht fern vom Land, nur etwa zweihundert Ellen, und zogen das Netz mit den Fischen. 9 Als sie nun an Land stiegen, sahen sie ein Kohlenfeuer am Boden und Fisch darauf und Brot. 10 Spricht Jesus zu ihnen: Bringt von den Fischen, die ihr jetzt gefangen habt! 11 Simon Petrus stieg herauf und zog das Netz an Land, voll großer Fische, hundertdreiundfünfzig. Und obwohl es so viele waren, zerriss doch das Netz nicht. 12 Spricht Jesus zu ihnen: Kommt und haltet das Mahl! Niemand aber unter den Jüngern wagte, ihn zu fragen: Wer bist du? Denn sie wussten: Es ist der Herr. 13 Da kommt Jesus und nimmt das Brot und gibt’s ihnen, desgleichen auch den Fisch. 14 Das ist nun das dritte Mal, dass sich Jesus den Jüngern offenbarte, nachdem er von den Toten auferstanden war.
Johannes 21,1-14
Wir beten mit der heiligen Christenheit:
Herr, Gott himmlischer Vater, der Du Deinen eingeborenen Sohn um unserer Sünde willen hingegeben und uns zur Gerechtigkeit hast wieder auferwecket, wir bitten Deine Barmherzigkeit, Du wollest unsere Herzen durch Deinen Geist zu neuem Leben erwecken und unsere Leiber dort mit Christus ewig lebendig machen. Durch Jesus Christus unseren Herrn, der mit Dir und dem Heiligen Geist, ein wahrer Gott, lebet und regieret in Ewigkeit. Amen.
Orate fratres S.131f
Es segne und behüte Euch Gott, der allmächtige und barmherzige, der Vater, Sohn + Heiliger Geist +
Having arrived in the Holy Land, we stayed overnight in Nazareth and awoke early to witness sunrise over the surrounding hills. Getting the wake-up call at 6h00 was my regular time to get up back home in Wittenberg as Israel is one hour ahead of Berlin both in winter and in summer. I did not go for my daily run nor did I go through some stretching routine. Getting to breakfast by 6h30 was hurried enough as it was. The temperatures had dropped to 6° overnight, but the prospects were that the thermometer would rise to 19° in the course of the day.
Breakfast was a sumptuous affair with all sorts of breads, meats, eggs, vegetables, fruits and sweets spread out on the buffet. Most importantly they had coffee machines (one was broken!) and the long lines leading up to them, underlined their relevance. I enjoyed lemons and grapefruit, but also yoghurt and all sorts of oriental spices and delicacies. The wide spread was something extraordinary.
In the bus we put on our headphones and after Eayd counted the group up and down several times as he would now do at nearly every stop, we got going and to see Nazareth from the street. It is populated by muslims mostly and is the most islamic city in the north of Israel. Still, Eayd is convinced, they live in good neighbourhood with the (few) Christians there.
We drove to Beit She´arim. This is one of the most holy sites of Judaism and a world heritage site. The famous rabbi Jehuda HaNasi wrote down the Mishna here. This was the place, where the Jewish Sanhedrin gathered, when they were expelled from Jerusalem by caesar Hadrian, who is to rott in hell for all the evil he brought down on the Jews. We looked at many of the ancient burial sites of the Jews, who used this extensively as an alternative to Jerusalem until the fifth century. Then the site was covered up and only discovered in 1936 by Alexander Zaid. The excavated graves are a site to see. I was reminded of the biblical passage: “… wie die Juden ihre Toten zu begraben pflegen.” (Johannes 19,40) The hanging gardens are beautiful – not just the “Judasbaum“. Lots of birds were flying about and singing in the trees – not just the European bee eater. Israel is a safe haven for birds on their migratory route down to Africa and up to Europe. We even saw a hoopoe, the national bird of Israel. We could have stayed much longer in this beautiful place, but as the tour was sightseeing we pushed on for more and other things on the agenda. Much was left by the way side, but some things we managed to see.
Travelling on the 75 we passed the impressive Karmel mountains all clad in spring greens and in hardly no time, we were down at the Nahal Meárot Nature Reserve – another world heritage site. It reminded me a lot of the “Cradle of Humankind” in the Magaliesberg near Hartebeespoortdam. We even saw some dassies, which were the main attraction to most Germans, who had not seen those yet and thought I was mad, when I pointed out, that they are biologically related to elephants. What I liked about this sightseeing tour, was that you could get out of the bus now and again – take a stroll up the mountainside, watch some birds, photograph some flowers and enjoy the atmosphere of banana plantations, eucalyptus trees and all the fresh air, you could hope for. All these sites were covered entry-wise by the tour. That was nice too.
From there we drove down to Haifa – a beautiful see town, which actually sports French and German quarters, has wonderful parks and villas and the impressive Bahai world centre too. The German colony was established by Templars from Württemberg in the 19th century, but because of their Nazi association were expelled by the British during the big war. No wonder this too is a world heritage site, just as the next town: Akko.
We walked through the bazaar of Akko leading to the seashore and were dumbfounded by the magnificent structures left behind by the Templars: St. John of Accre. All of that had been covered up with dirt by the Ottoman Turks, but has been brought to light in this century by Israel archeologists. Fabulous really.
From Akko we returned to Nazareth and had a good look at the Greek orthodox basilica of the Annunciation (Verkündigungskirche), the place where Jesus was obedient to his parents and where St. Joseph had his carpentry and Mary went about her daily chores. This definitely was the highlight of the day – and we could look forward to a well earned nights rest.
Der auferstandene Herr Jesus Christus spricht: “Pax vobiscum.”
Fürchte dich nicht! Ich bin der Erste und der Letzte und der Lebendige. Ich war tot, und siehe, ich bin lebendig von Ewigkeit zu Ewigkeit und habe die Schlüssel des Todes und der Hölle.
Offenbarung 1,17-18
Also heilig ist der Tag, daß ihn niemand mit Lobe erfüllen mag Denn der einige Gottes Sohn, der die Hölle überwand, Und den leidigen Teufel darinnen band; damit erlöst der Herr die Christenheit. Das war Christ selber. Kyrieleis
Nach dem “Salve festa dies” des Bischofs Venantius Fortunatus (530-610) Wittenberg 1545 (LKG 155)
Fortlaufende Lese
Ich ermahne euch nun, Brüder und Schwestern, durch die Barmherzigkeit Gottes, dass ihr euren Leib hingebt als ein Opfer, das lebendig, heilig und Gott wohlgefällig sei. Das sei euer vernünftiger Gottesdienst. 2 Und stellt euch nicht dieser Welt gleich, sondern ändert euch durch Erneuerung eures Sinnes, auf dass ihr prüfen könnt, was Gottes Wille ist, nämlich das Gute und Wohlgefällige und Vollkommene.
3 Denn ich sage durch die Gnade, die mir gegeben ist, jedem unter euch, dass niemand mehr von sich halte, als sich’s gebührt, sondern dass er maßvoll von sich halte, wie Gott einem jeden zugeteilt hat das Maß des Glaubens. 4 Denn wie wir an einem Leib viele Glieder haben, aber nicht alle Glieder dieselbe Aufgabe haben, 5 so sind wir, die vielen, ein Leib in Christus, aber untereinander ist einer des andern Glied. 6 Wir haben mancherlei Gaben nach der Gnade, die uns gegeben ist. Hat jemand prophetische Rede, so übe er sie dem Glauben gemäß. 7 Hat jemand ein Amt, so versehe er dies Amt. Ist jemand Lehrer, so lehre er. 8 Hat jemand die Gabe, zu ermahnen und zu trösten, so ermahne und tröste er. Wer gibt, gebe mit lauterem Sinn. Wer leitet, tue es mit Eifer. Wer Barmherzigkeit übt, tue es mit Freude.
Römer 12:1-8
Tageslese am Osterdienstag
Als sie aber davon redeten, trat er selbst mitten unter sie und sprach zu ihnen: Friede sei mit euch! 37 Sie erschraken aber und fürchteten sich und meinten, sie sähen einen Geist. 38 Und er sprach zu ihnen: Was seid ihr so erschrocken, und warum kommen solche Gedanken in euer Herz? 39 Seht meine Hände und meine Füße, ich bin’s selber. Fasst mich an und seht; denn ein Geist hat nicht Fleisch und Knochen, wie ihr seht, dass ich sie habe. 40 Und als er das gesagt hatte, zeigte er ihnen seine Hände und Füße. 41 Da sie es aber noch nicht glauben konnten vor Freude und sich verwunderten, sprach er zu ihnen: Habt ihr hier etwas zu essen? 42 Und sie legten ihm ein Stück gebratenen Fisch vor. 43 Und er nahm’s und aß vor ihnen. 44 Er sprach aber zu ihnen: Das sind meine Worte, die ich zu euch gesagt habe, als ich noch bei euch war: Es muss alles erfüllt werden, was von mir geschrieben steht im Gesetz des Mose und in den Propheten und Psalmen. 45 Da öffnete er ihnen das Verständnis, dass sie die Schrift verstanden, 46 und sprach zu ihnen: So steht’s geschrieben, dass der Christus leiden wird und auferstehen von den Toten am dritten Tage; 47 und dass gepredigt wird in seinem Namen Buße zur Vergebung der Sünden unter allen Völkern. Von Jerusalem an 48 seid ihr dafür Zeugen.
Lukas 24:36-48
Wir beten mit der heiligen Christenheit:
Herr, Gott himmlischer Vater, der Du Deinen eingeborenen Sohn um unserer Sünde willen hingegeben und uns zur Gerechtigkeit hast wieder auferwecket, wir bitten Deine Barmherzigkeit, Du wollest unsere Herzen durch Deinen Geist zu neuem Leben erwecken und unsere Leiber dort mit Christus ewig lebendig machen. Durch Jesus Christus unseren Herrn, der mit Dir und dem Heiligen Geist, ein wahrer Gott, lebet und regieret in Ewigkeit. Amen.
Orate fratres S.131f
Es segne und behüte Euch Gott, der allmächtige und barmherzige, der Vater, Sohn + Heiliger Geist +
It was the last Friday in March and in Lutherstadt Wittenberg sunrise was imminent. We had packed our bags, filled up our car and were ready to roll. Normally we would have taken the train, but these days, that is dicey. “Deutsche Bahn” has serious issues and not just with strikes by Verdi and other disruptors. Without any serious stoppages and going full blast most of the way, we quickly found “Dein-Stellplatz” in Hufenweg 16 to park our car for the next week. A shuttle took us to the airport and in good time, we found the counter for El Al. It was the first time, we were flying with this airline. At least that was the plan. Things can change quickly.
Angelika piped up: “I have not got my passport!” At first I thought, well, she might get by with her German ID, but that was not enough. What could we do? Angelika wanted to take the train back to Wittenberg, but there was not enough time for that. It was now 7h45 and the flight was scheduled to leave at 10h00. She would only be back in Wittenberg by then and the plane would leave without her – and without me, because on these Israel tours, couples are treated as units. Anyway, in our mind, we tried Ukrainian neighbours – like Sascha, who has a car and Natalia, who had access to our house – but both were unavailable. Sascha was taking his children to school and Natalia was teaching. So, I tried Thomas Schmid. He is part of of Stammtisch and does guided tours in Dessau. When I called, he was up and ready for a new day. His next tour was in Dessau at 11h00. Without much ado, he agreed to pick up Angelikas passport in her office and try to get to us at the airport in time. Of course we were now sitting on coals, but it did help to know, that our flight was somewhat delayed. Time passed terribly slow, but Thomas made it to the airport with some twenty minutes to spare before 10h00. We checked in our bags. Went through long security lines and started to relax. I do not remember, how often we hugged ourselves to confirm, we were indeed leaving for the real Holy Land and not just the one in Wittenberg.
I had cut up some apples and pears. That came in handy as we were waiting for the aeroplane from Tel Aviv to arrive. The political disruptions there had caused some delay. Well, we for one, did not really care. We were overjoyed, that we were going to fly and not just pick up our car to return home with our mission not accomplished. The plane was fully booked. The stewardesses pretty and professional. In just around four hours we touched down in Tel Aviv at Ben Gurion Airport and we set foot on the holy Land for the very first time in our lives.
At the airport we had to go through various checks and controls. My South African passport was illegible to the AI scanners and I had to stand in the long queues waiting for personal attention by the busy border police. In the end that too was done and we got our luggage and boarded the tour bus to get to Nazareth, where we were booked in for the next two nights. The bus was comfortable, had WiFi and charging facilities and super cold aircon, which during spring and with temperatures way below twenty was overkill. Later in summer it might come in handy. For now it was just too much for old Germans. My friends in the US would have been in their element.
Eyad was our tourguide. He is a Palestinian, confessing muslim and by nature contra Israeli government and especially at loggerheads with Netanyahu. He had been an exchange student in Germany (Erlangen/Göttingen) with DAAD and learnt some German. He contends that his maths and physics is better than German grammar, but honestly, that does not say too much. His regular filler was “einfach mal”. So, looking back, Jesus was just born in Bethlehem and just crucified in Jerusalem just as we were just going to this or that place before just going to eat or go to sleep. It was all a matter of “einfach mal”. It was not long before Angelika and I realised it was just a matter of just doing just this or just that. You get the message.
The tour was packed. We were forty tourists from across Germany – from Hamburg up north to Dortmund in the West and Greifswald in the East and the Schwarzwald down south. The advert of “Trendtours” is “unterwegs mit netten Leuten” and that pretty much nails it. They were interesting people and good to get along with. We had some fascinating encounters with a number of them and I can imagine, we will keep contact with some of them. A soldier told of his expedition across the Sahara. A adventurous lady climbed Macchu picchu. Another couple had served the old DDR-mission in Syria for nearly a decade. Another found Las Vegas to be the most spectacular city in the world and so on. There were a number of teachers in the group, an architect with his wife, plenty retirees and some families too. A nice mix of beans. The sun was setting and we were ready for our tour of Israel.
Arriving in Nazareth, we unpacked in the hotel: “Mary´s Well Nazareth”, settled down, had a bite and then went off to listen to a Christian choir from Bethlehem singing in one of the churches down town. It was close to the well, where the holy virgin and mother of God – blessed Mary – daily picked up water for her godly household. The place is quite covered with marble or other serious bricklaying material. Not much of the old pathways to be seen, but right into the third and forth centuries many of the old buildings had graffiti spelling Mary´s name on walls, buildings and structures.
The choir was very Palestinian. I could not make out a word. There was a lot of solo singing – in oriental style – with loudspeakers, fancy lighting and even mist machines and accompanied with traditional violins, lyres and string instruments. It was not really my style, but I was impressed by the huge crowd of seriously distinguished guests. The men looked like from the best Lutheran church councils and the women were stylishly dressed in black, with veils and lots of jewelry and finery. They could have been members of any Lutheran women´s league around the world. The men wore no hats. They had enough hair – grey, dense and well kept. They all wore warm clothing, because it was chilly and we were sitting outside the church of the Annunciation. We felt most welcome in their midst, even if we only found places right at the back with the old men. We left somewhat around 10h00 and made our way back to the hotel.
Most shops were only now closing down for the night. Many men were eating out on the street cafes. Obviously enjoying the break from Ramadan fasting. Others were busy redoing the political graffiti on the roadside. Women and children were out in numbers giving them oral support. It probably was a good time – after the motivational Friday prayers in the mosque – and during the start of the Sabbath, so that the cleaning process by the Jewish authorities would be sometime in coming. Our guide´s symphathy clearly was with them, still, I had the feeling, they were but a radical minority, who where sponsored by foreign religious fanatics, while most others just walked by, went about their business in their little shops, cars and on the pavement. At the ice cream parlour next to our hotel, we got some lovely sweetness before calling it a day, just as Eyad had recommended. Next door we also found an ATM. That made it easy to load up with at least some shekels for the coming days. Most
The walk through downtown Nazareth had us very ready for the coming day. Surely, we were going to have some fascinating days in this more or less holy land. I was looking forward to some pure pomegranate juice
Wilhelm's space 