Tel Aviv is fascinating. A day is far too short to enjoy this vibrant city – even if all was at half pace due to the big holidays. The “White City” made us feel most welcome and very much at home.
Together with the group and under the guidance of Eayd we visited St. Peter´s church, looked at the home, where the holy Apostle was instructed from above to not call anything unclean, that God had sanctified.
About noon the next day, while they were on their way and approaching the city, Peter went up on the roof to pray. 10 He became hungry and wanted to eat, but while they were preparing the meal, a trance came over him. 11 He saw heaven opened and an object something like a large sheet descending, being let down to earth by its four corners. 12 In it were all kinds of four-footed animals and reptiles of the earth and wild birds. 13 Then a voice said to him, “Get up, Peter; slaughter and eat!” 14 But Peter said, “Certainly not, Lord, for I have never eaten anything defiled and ritually unclean!”15 The voice spoke to him again, a second time, “What God has made clean, you must not consider ritually unclean!”16 This happened three times, and immediately the object was taken up into heaven.
Acts 10,9-16
We strolled down to the harbour together before we all went off on our own to enjoy this last day of our tour. Angelika and I were off to the long beach front to swim. We could hear the waves calling and the wonderful beach was so inviting. We stacked our stuff in some lockers and off we went to enjoy the rolling waves, the company of wonderful people in the Manta Ray and the full moon in the Holy Land.
Gelobt sei Gott, der Vater unseres Herrn Jesus Christus, der uns nach seiner großen Barmherzigkeit wiedergeboren hat zu einer lebendigen Hoffnung durch die Auferstehung Jesu Christi von den Toten, zu einem unvergänglichen und unbefleckten und unverwelklichen Erbe, das aufbewahrt wird im Himmel für Euch, die Ihr aus Gottes Macht durch den Glauben bewahrt werdet zur Seligkeit, die bereitet ist, dass sie offenbar werde zu der letzten Zeit.
1. Petrus 1,3-5
Die drei Frauen am Grab, mit dem Engel, Albani-Psalter, 12. Jahrhundert
Gelobt sei Gott im höchsten Thron samt seinem eingebornen Sohn, der für uns hat genug getan. Halleluja, Halleluja, Halleluja.
Des Morgens früh am dritten Tag, da noch der Stein am Grabe lag, erstand er frei ohn alle Klag. Halleluja, Halleluja, Halleluja.
Der Engel sprach: »Ei fürcht euch nicht; denn ich weiß wohl, was Euch gebricht. Ihr sucht Jesus, den findt ihr nicht.« Halleluja, Halleluja, Halleluja.
»Er ist erstanden von dem Tod, hat überwunden alle Not; kommt, seht, wo er gelegen hat.« Halleluja, Halleluja, Halleluja.
Nun bitten wir Dich, Jesu Christ, weil Du vom Tod erstanden bist, verleihe, was uns selig ist. Halleluja, Halleluja, Halleluja.
Damit von Sünden wir befreit, dem Namen Dein gebenedeit frei mögen singen allezeit: Halleluja, Halleluja, Halleluja.
Michael Weiße 1531 (LKG 158)
Fortlaufende Lese
Den Schwachen im Glauben nehmt an und streitet nicht über Meinungen. 2 Der eine glaubt, er dürfe alles essen. Der Schwache aber isst kein Fleisch. 3 Wer isst, der verachte den nicht, der nicht isst; und wer nicht isst, der richte den nicht, der isst; denn Gott hat ihn angenommen. 4 Wer bist du, dass du einen fremden Knecht richtest? Er steht oder fällt seinem Herrn. Er wird aber stehen bleiben; denn der Herr kann ihn aufrecht halten. 5 Der eine hält einen Tag für höher als den andern; der andere aber hält alle Tage für gleich. Ein jeder sei seiner Meinung gewiss. 6 Wer auf den Tag achtet, der tut’s im Blick auf den Herrn; wer isst, der isst im Blick auf den Herrn, denn er dankt Gott; und wer nicht isst, der isst im Blick auf den Herrn nicht und dankt Gott auch. 7 Denn unser keiner lebt sich selber, und keiner stirbt sich selber. 8 Leben wir, so leben wir dem Herrn; sterben wir, so sterben wir dem Herrn. Darum: wir leben oder sterben, so sind wir des Herrn. 9 Denn dazu ist Christus gestorben und wieder lebendig geworden, dass er über Tote und Lebende Herr sei. 10 Du aber, was richtest du deinen Bruder? Oder du, was verachtest du deinen Bruder? Wir werden alle vor den Richterstuhl Gottes gestellt werden. 11 Denn es steht geschrieben: »So wahr ich lebe, spricht der Herr, mir sollen sich alle Knie beugen, und alle Zungen sollen Gott bekennen.« 12 So wird nun jeder von uns für sich selbst Gott Rechenschaft geben.
Römer 14:1-12
Tageslese
Aus diesem Grund erinnere ich dich daran, dass du erweckest die Gabe Gottes, die in dir ist durch die Auflegung meiner Hände. 7 Denn Gott hat uns nicht gegeben den Geist der Furcht, sondern der Kraft und der Liebe und der Besonnenheit. 8 Darum schäme dich nicht des Zeugnisses von unserm Herrn noch meiner, der ich sein Gefangener bin, sondern leide mit für das Evangelium in der Kraft Gottes. 9 Er hat uns selig gemacht und berufen mit einem heiligen Ruf, nicht nach unsern Werken, sondern nach seinem Ratschluss und nach der Gnade, die uns gegeben ist in Christus Jesus vor der Zeit der Welt, 10 jetzt aber offenbart ist durch die Erscheinung unseres Heilands Christus Jesus, der dem Tode die Macht genommen und das Leben und ein unvergängliches Wesen ans Licht gebracht hat durch das Evangelium, 11 für das ich eingesetzt bin als Prediger und Apostel und Lehrer.
2. Timotheus 1,6-11
Wir beten mit der Kollekte für Quasimodogeniti
Allmächtiger Gott, der Du Deinen Sohn von den Toten auferweckt hast: verleihe uns, daß auch wir, durch Deine Gnade wiedergeboren, in einem neuen Leben wandeln. Durch Jesus Christus, unseren Herrn, der mit Dir und dem Heiligen Geist lebt und regiert in Ewigkeit. Amen.
Orate Fratres S.132
Es segne und behüte Euch Gott, der allmächtige und barmherzige, der Vater, Sohn + Heiliger Geist + Friede sei mit Euch +
Time is flying and we are heading to Jerusalem again. This time we enter at the Damascus gate. Eayd has us on a tight schedules. Even as tourists on the bus are disturbed by the news of riots on the temple mount, we are planning to start off there, stroll through the old city of Jerusalem once again before we head out to the Knesset, see the big national KnessetMenorah and make our appointment at Yad Vashem. We would still have plenty of time to get to Tel Aviv and start saying our goodbyes to this very promised and Holy Land.
The sweet and short of the nights trouble was, that some Palestinian radicals had shut themselves up in the Al-Aqsa Mosque. They were trying to prevent extreme Jews to enter in and sacrifice some paschal lambs and/or heifers. It was a free ticket to the extremists, who were insisting on their rights to freely pray in the Mosque whenever and now they could blame those die hards in the mosque for keeping them from this acknowledged right of access. That is why the police stormed the place early in the morning and cleared out all obstacles even against the heavy opposition of those Palestinians. When we got there, things were quite relaxed. Remarkable how the security forces keep things in check. I could not thank them enough for making our stay safe and possible. Can You imagine walking into Mecca or Medina in a collar or a kippah? Just remember the aggression faced by Israelis coming out as such during the world soccer cup in Dubai. It is not just Iranians, who bedevil the Jews. Well, on the temple mount Palestinian girls and younger women were still sitting in all over filming every step of tourists, security guards and Jews pilgrims just too eager to post any signs of disturbance and aggression on social media. Well, I felt perfectly safe. I believe, the Israeli troopers were on my side and so I enjoyed the morning in the bright sunlight. It sure is a beautiful site: Adam´s skull buried here; Abraham´s figurative offering of Isaac took place there; Jesus was finally crucified here and buried too before He rose on the third day. No wonder all hold it to be the very center and navel of the earth. Sounds a lot more convincing than alternatives in Delphi etc.
The various muslim holy places sure dominate the place today. No small wonder some extreme Jews want to change that even if the more moderate prefer the status quo: Just don´t rock the boat. I presume, it is very much like the politically savvy Sadducees arguing with more radical Pharisees in Jesus times and then You would even get some way out Zealots stoke the pot as much as they possibly could. Funny thing is, that Jesus got disciples from all different walks of life – even turncoat tax collectors like Matthew. No small wonder they were a colourful band on the way up to Jerusalem.
My visit to the Western Wall was quite emotional. It´s not often that I am surpassed by far by religious zealots, but I think it is fair, that in comparison with these religious people, I am but a poor straggler and learner. St. Paul knew all about it:
Brothers and sisters, my heart’s desire and prayer to God for the Israelites is that they may be saved. 2 For I can testify about them that they are zealous for God, but their zeal is not based on knowledge. 3 Since they did not know the righteousness of God and sought to establish their own, they did not submit to God’s righteousness. 4 Christ is the culmination of the law so that there may be righteousness for everyone who believes.
Romans 10,1-4ff
Well, there is much to say about this – and St. Paul continues for a while before he confesses the faith:
“The deliverer will come from Zion; he will turn godlessness away from Jacob. 27 And this is my covenant with them when I take away their sins.”
Romans 11,26-27
and praises the triune God in highest tones:
Oh, the depth of the riches of the wisdom and[i] knowledge of God! How unsearchable his judgments, and his paths beyond tracing out! 34 “Who has known the mind of the Lord? Or who has been his counselor?” 35 “Who has ever given to God, that God should repay them?” 36 For from him and through him and for him are all things. To him be the glory forever! Amen.
Romans 11,33-36.
I felt very much at home on the site of these temple foundations. I am sure, it was a foretaste of the great day, when we will see our good Lord Jesus Christ returning and we from the North and the South, the East and the West will sit with the patriarchs of old and rejoice in God´s visible kingdom at last – the heavenly Jerusalem for all to see – and the Lamb at the center of all. For now, we have but His promise, which He fulfills all in all through and in IX – for us and our salvation +
We looked in at the Austrian Hospice for Pilgrims. Walter von der Vogelweide stayed there too. They have a wonderful terrace and cafe, but nothing beats the view from their roof across Jerusalem. That alone is worthwhile the visit. This is high on my bucket list.
We took our coffee and pomegranate juice with Jacob (?) – the father of Rimon Himo – next to the Damascus gate. Nice view down the alley way and enjoyed the busy scene.
On the bus we got to parliament. It´s just around the corner and from there it was just a hop, skip and jump to Vad Jashem. There are so many museums, excavations and sights we skipped, that another visit to the Holy City seems the natural thing to do.
In Tel Aviv we drove through the “White City” (Bauhaus) to get to the site, where Yitzhak Rabin was assassinated by a Jewish extremist before we dropped our bags in some hotel and from there walked down to the beach and old Jaffa harbour, where St. Peter had been called to visit the non-jewish Cornelius (Acts 10). Well, we just walked through the balmy night, enjoying the vibe of this relaxed city during these high holidays, when pious Jews burn all old bread and clear out all left over yeast.
Sitting at the seaside of Jaffa Port and looking over to the skyline of Tel Aviv was bliss. At that time, we did not imagine some terrorist tearing down that street to mow down relaxed french tourists. That would only happen the next day and a bit further north. We were still very much at peace. This however, is a very fragile state. Especially in the Middle East – and the Israeli heartland – with so many terrorists with serious grudges running around freely and that is not even counting all the “nearly normal residents” with old ressentiments sky rocketing. Kyrie eleison +
We walked hand-in-hand and totally relaxed through the parks and narrow alley ways – not afraid and very much like we used to in summers down south. The blooming oranges spread their fragrance and the ocean waves were soothing sounds in this high holiday season.
Blessed be the God and Father of our Lord Jesus Christ +
By his great mercy He gave us new birth into a living hope through the resurrection of Jesus Christ from the dead.
1. Peter 1,3
Initial E, Egerton 1066 (13. century)
Awake, my heart, with gladness, See what today is done; How after gloom and sadness, Comes forth the glorious Sun. My Savior there was laid Where our bed must be made When to the realms of light Our spirit wings its flight.
They in the grave did sink Him, The foe held jubilee; Before he can bethink him, Lo! Christ again is free. And “Victory” He cries, And waving tow’rds the skies His banner, while the field Is by the Hero held!
Upon the grave is standing The Hero looking round; The foe, no more withstanding, His weapons on the ground Throws down, his hellish pow’r To Christ must he give o’er, And to the Victor’s bands Must yield his feet and hands.
A sight it is to gladden; And fill the heart with glee, No more affright or sadden Shall aught, or take from me My trust or fortitude, Or any precious good The Savior bought for me In sov’reign love and free.
Hell and its prince, the devil, Of all their pow’rs are shorn; Now I am safe from evil, And sin I laugh to scorn. Grim Death with all his might Cannot my soul affright; He is a pow’rless form, Howe’er he rage and storm.
The world against me rageth Its fury I disdain; Though bitter war it wageth Its work is all in vain. My heart from care is free, Misfortune now is play, No trouble troubles me, And night is bright as day.
I cleave now and forever To Christ, a member true, My Head will leave me never, Whate’er He passeth through. He treads the world beneath His feet, and conquers death And hell, and breaks sin’s thrall; I’m with Him through it all.
To halls of heavenly splendor With Him I penetrate; And trouble ne’er may hinder Nor make me hesitate. No enemy I fear, Because my Head is near; My Savior is my Shield, By Him all rage is stilled.
He brings me to the portal That opens into bliss, Where graved in words immortal This golden scripture is: “Who’s there despised with me, Here with me crown’d shall be; Who there with Me shall die, Here’s raised with me on high!”
Paul Gerhardt (1607-1676) tr. John Kelly (1833-1890) LSB 467
The Introit lets us pray and join in God´s praises:
I love the Lord because he heard my plea for mercy and listened to me. As long as I live, I will call to him when I need help. The ropes of death tightened around me, the snares of Sheol confronted me. I was confronted with trouble and sorrow. I called on the name of the Lord, “Please, Lord, rescue my life!” The Lord is merciful and fair; our God is compassionate. The Lord protects the untrained; I was in serious trouble and he delivered me. Rest once more, my soul, for the Lord has vindicated you. Yes, Lord, you rescued my life from death, kept my eyes from tears and my feet from stumbling. I will serve the Lord in the land of the living. I will celebrate my deliverance and call on the name of the Lord.
Psalm 116:1-9.13
God´s Word recorded by His holy prophet Isaiah:
“To whom can you compare me? Whom do I resemble?” says the Holy One. Look up at the sky! Who created all these heavenly lights? He is the one who leads out their ranks; he calls them all by name. Because of his absolute power and awesome strength, not one of them is missing. Why do you say, Jacob, Why do you say, Israel, “The Lord is not aware of what is happening to me; My God is not concerned with my vindication”? Do you not know? Have you not heard? The Lord is an eternal God, the Creator of the whole earth. He does not get tired or weary; there is no limit to his wisdom. He gives strength to those who are tired; to the ones who lack power, he gives renewed energy. Even youths get tired and weary; even strong young men clumsily stumble. But those who wait for the Lord’s help find renewed strength; they rise up as if they had eagles’ wings, they run without growing weary, they walk without getting tired.
Isaiah 40:25-31
St. Peter encourages suffering Christians:
Blessed be the God and Father of our Lord Jesus Christ! By his great mercy he gave us new birth into a living hope through the resurrection of Jesus Christ from the dead, that is, into an inheritance imperishable, undefiled, and unfading. It is reserved in heaven for you, who by God’s power are protected through faith for a salvation ready to be revealed in the last time. This brings you great joy, although you may have to suffer for a short time in various trials. Such trials show the proven character of your faith, which is much more valuable than gold—gold that is tested by fire, even though it is passing away—and will bring praise and glory and honor when Jesus Christ is revealed. You have not seen him, but you love him. You do not see him now but you believe in him, and so you rejoice with an indescribable and glorious joy, because you are attaining the goal of your faith—the salvation of your souls.
1. Peter 1,3-9
The holy Gospel of our Lord according to St. John:
On the evening of that day, the first day of the week, the disciples had gathered together and locked the doors of the place because they were afraid of the Jewish leaders. Jesus came and stood among them and said to them, “Peace be with you.” When he had said this, he showed them his hands and his side. Then the disciples rejoiced when they saw the Lord. So Jesus said to them again, “Peace be with you. Just as the Father has sent me, I also send you.” And after he said this, he breathed on them and said, “Receive the Holy Spirit. If you forgive anyone’s sins, they are forgiven; if you retain anyone’s sins, they are retained.” Now Thomas (called Didymus), one of the twelve, was not with them when Jesus came. The other disciples told him, “We have seen the Lord!” But he replied, “Unless I see the wounds from the nails in his hands, and put my finger into the wounds from the nails, and put my hand into his side, I will never believe it!” Eight days later the disciples were again together in the house, and Thomas was with them. Although the doors were locked, Jesus came and stood among them and said, “Peace be with you!” Then he said to Thomas, “Put your finger here, and examine my hands. Extend your hand and put it into my side. Do not continue in your unbelief, but believe.” Thomas replied to him, “My Lord and my God!” Jesus said to him, “Have you believed because you have seen me? Blessed are the people who have not seen and yet have believed.” Now Jesus performed many other miraculous signs in the presence of the disciples, which are not recorded in this book. But these are recorded so that you may believe that Jesus is the Christ, the Son of God, and that by believing you may have life in his name.
John 20:19-31
The sermon preaches God´s Word as recorded by the holy prophet Moses
During the night Jacob quickly took his two wives, his two female servants, and his eleven sons and crossed the ford of the Jabbok. 23 He took them and sent them across the stream along with all his possessions. 24 So Jacob was left alone. Then a man wrestled with him until daybreak. 25 When the man saw that he could not defeat Jacob, he struck the socket of his hip so the socket of Jacob’s hip was dislocated while he wrestled with him. 26 Then the man said, “Let me go, for the dawn is breaking.” “I will not let you go,” Jacob replied, “unless you bless me.” 27 The man asked him, “What is your name?” He answered, “Jacob.” 28 “No longer will your name be Jacob,” the man told him, “but Israel, because you have fought with God and with men and have prevailed.” 29 Then Jacob asked, “Please tell me your name.” “Why do you ask my name?” the man replied. Then he blessed Jacob there. 30 So Jacob named the place Peniel, explaining, “Certainly I have seen God face to face and have survived.” 31 The sun rose over him as he crossed over Penuel, but he was limping because of his hip. 32 That is why to this day the Israelites do not eat the sinew which is attached to the socket of the hip, because he struck the socket of Jacob’s hip near the attached sinew.
Genesis 32:23-32 (1st Book of Moses)
Let us pray for the whole Church of God in Christ Jesus and for all people according to their needs.
Heavenly Father, Your Son is the firstborn from the dead. In Him, we have been reborn into a new and living hope. Nurture us with the pure milk of Your Word, that we may grow to maturity of faith and have everlasting life. Lord, in Your mercy, hear our prayer.
Gracious Lord, You overcome our doubts by the patience and grace of Your Son. Inspire us by the testimony of His holy apostles, and build up Your Church in our time. Remove the weight of sin from as many as will repent. Lord, in Your mercy, hear our prayer.
Almighty God, build up the households of Your people, that Your holy children, begotten in Baptism, may grow in Your grace and share together in Your forgiveness and life. Lord, in Your mercy, hear our prayer.
Righteous King, You promise that the faith of Your people will overcome the world. Let it be so! By the testimony of the Word and Sacrament, overcome the powers of this world. Turn its evil to good, and enliven many to follow Christ in faith. Lord, in Your mercy, hear our prayer.
God of all comfort, You permit even Your beloved people to fall into difficult days of confusion and suffering and draw near to death. Send Your Spirit to lift them up in faith, especially those struggling with the consequences of the Russian war and genocide in Ukraine, that they may follow You through their trials into eternal life. Lord, in Your mercy, hear our prayer.
Merciful Lord, as Your Son made the disciples glad in His risen and life-giving flesh on the first day of the week and again eight days later, so let us find gladness in His wounds and His abiding presence among us each week in the blessed Sacrament. Give us a hunger for Your Word of peace in this Supper, through which He gives us His life-giving body and blood. Lord, in Your mercy, hear our prayer.
Into Your hands, O Lord, we commend all for whom we pray, trusting in Your mercy; through Jesus Christ, our Lord. Amen.
+ Dominum vobiscum +
The Lord bless Thee, and keep Thee:
The Lord make his face shine upon Thee, and be gracious unto Thee:
The Lord lift up his countenance upon Thee and give Thee peace.
Der auferstandene Herr spricht: “Friede sei mit Euch.”
Fürchte dich nicht! Ich bin der Erste und der Letzte und der Lebendige. Ich war tot, und siehe, ich bin lebendig von Ewigkeit zu Ewigkeit und habe die Schlüssel des Todes und der Hölle.
Offenbarung 1,17-18
Magdalenenaltar: “Die Auferstehung Christi” (Aschaffenburg). Lucas Cranach Werkstatt (1520-1525)
Wir singen das evangelische Osterlied:
Jesus Christus, unser Heiland, der den Tod überwand, ist auferstanden, die Sünd hat er gefangen. Kyrie eleison.
Der ohn Sünden war geboren, trug für uns Gottes Zorn, hat uns versöhnet, dass Gott uns sein Huld gönnet. Kyrie eleison.
Tod, Sünd, Leben und auch Gnad, alls in Händen er hat; er kann erretten alle, die zu ihm treten. Kyrie eleison.
Martin Luther 1524 (LKG 157)
Fortlaufende Lese
Seid niemandem etwas schuldig, außer dass ihr euch untereinander liebt; denn wer den andern liebt, der hat das Gesetz erfüllt. 9 Denn was da gesagt ist: »Du sollst nicht ehebrechen; du sollst nicht töten; du sollst nicht stehlen; du sollst nicht begehren«, und was da sonst an Geboten ist, das wird in diesem Wort zusammengefasst: »Du sollst deinen Nächsten lieben wie dich selbst.« 10 Die Liebe tut dem Nächsten nichts Böses. So ist nun die Liebe des Gesetzes Erfüllung.
11 Und das tut, weil ihr die Zeit erkannt habt, dass die Stunde da ist, aufzustehen vom Schlaf, denn unser Heil ist jetzt näher als zu der Zeit, da wir gläubig wurden. 12 Die Nacht ist vorgerückt, der Tag ist nahe herbeigekommen. So lasst uns ablegen die Werke der Finsternis und anlegen die Waffen des Lichts. 13 Lasst uns ehrbar leben wie am Tage, nicht in Fressen und Saufen, nicht in Unzucht und Ausschweifung, nicht in Hader und Neid; 14 sondern zieht an den Herrn Jesus Christus und sorgt für den Leib nicht so, dass ihr den Begierden verfallt.
Römer 13:8-14
Tageslese
So legt nun ab alle Bosheit und allen Betrug und Heuchelei und Neid und alle üble Nachrede 2 und seid begierig nach der vernünftigen lauteren Milch wie die neugeborenen Kindlein, auf dass ihr durch sie wachset zum Heil, 3 da ihr schon geschmeckt habt, dass der Herr freundlich ist. 4 Zu ihm kommt als zu dem lebendigen Stein, der von den Menschen verworfen ist, aber bei Gott auserwählt und kostbar. 5 Und auch ihr als lebendige Steine erbaut euch zum geistlichen Hause und zur heiligen Priesterschaft, zu opfern geistliche Opfer, die Gott wohlgefällig sind durch Jesus Christus. 6 Darum steht in der Schrift: »Siehe, ich lege in Zion einen auserwählten, kostbaren Eckstein; und wer an ihn glaubt, der soll nicht zuschanden werden.« 7 Für euch nun, die ihr glaubt, ist er kostbar. Für die aber, die nicht glauben, ist er »der Stein, den die Bauleute verworfen haben; der ist zum Eckstein geworden« 8 und »ein Stein des Anstoßes und ein Fels des Ärgernisses« Sie stoßen sich an ihm, weil sie nicht an das Wort glauben, wozu sie auch bestimmt sind. 9 Ihr aber seid ein auserwähltes Geschlecht, ein königliches Priestertum, ein heiliges Volk, ein Volk zum Eigentum, dass ihr verkündigen sollt die Wohltaten dessen, der euch berufen hat aus der Finsternis in sein wunderbares Licht; 10 die ihr einst nicht sein Volk wart, nun aber Gottes Volk seid, und einst nicht in Gnaden wart, nun aber in Gnaden seid.
1. Petrus 2,1-10
Wir beten mit der heiligen Christenheit:
Herr, Gott himmlischer Vater, der Du Deinen eingeborenen Sohn um unserer Sünde willen hingegeben und uns zur Gerechtigkeit hast wieder auferwecket, wir bitten Deine Barmherzigkeit, Du wollest unsere Herzen durch Deinen Geist zu neuem Leben erwecken und unsere Leiber dort mit Christus ewig lebendig machen. Durch Jesus Christus unseren Herrn, der mit Dir und dem Heiligen Geist, ein wahrer Gott, lebet und regieret in Ewigkeit. Amen.
Orate fratres S.131f
Es segne und behüte Euch Gott, der allmächtige und barmherzige, der Vater, Sohn + Heiliger Geist
Waking in Bethlehem is quite something. Not just the old biblical surrounds, also the current political controversies amongst the main role players make it all rather exiting – jewish settlers, Palestinian terrorists (or freedom fighters!) and a small Christian minority to complicate the mix. This first day in Bethlehem we were planing to visit Jerusalem – and just like our good Lord – go in and come back for the night, just to return the next day again.
Trendtours “on the way with friendly people”
The various meals were good times to connect with the fellow travellers. Normally, there were long rows of tables set with plates and cutlery. Food was laid out on a buffet and coffee machines were placed for convenience. We normally had a good hour for the meals, but I was done after half that. Angelika skipped breakfast and rather concentrated on getting her writing done, coffee and hair too. There was an elderly couple (Gerd and ?), who sat across the aisle in the bus. They were not game to swim in the Dead Sea, nor did they want to go for walks in the evening after supper. Still, they were a friendly couple and I enjoyed their company. Two older women (over eighty) from around Wiesbaden, were friends and did these trips together for some years already. The elder of the two, was rather assertive towards Eayd and worked hard at getting things straightened out. The younger was a avid photographer. Both were game for everything and on the ball. A mother (over seventy) and her married son (in the late forties) came from the Schwarzwald and did this tour together, because the daughter/sister had found a friend and dropped out. She was an ardent catholic and he somewhat of a sceptic. Another couple, was retired. He had his knee replaced, was working hard at keeping it moving even as he walked with a stick. He was a confessing catholic. Drank beer and we sat under the olive trees in the back yard of the hotel discussing politics, religion and other interesting topics. His wife was a religious instructor in some school. She was rather involved in church in her earlier days, but had lately come of it as she put it. And so it went on and on. Each one of these pairs were good company. I enjoyed the discussions, but the were all rather short lived and without much consequence. A bit too short winded. I rather miss these people already. Perhaps I should have tried to create a chat group and organise a follow-up in Wittenberg. Perhaps it is not even too late for that now. We will see.
The bus drove us up through the old town of Bethlehem. We took the first left into Hebron Road and passed Rachel´s tomb. The high wall fencing off the W.Bank from Israel proper was quite a sight. Much higher than the Berlin Wall and most other walls I know. In some places it is but a fence, but in others the concrete slabs are very effective. We passed some security check point, where a Israeli soldier – every time a friendly woman! – checked the passport of a single tourist. That was enough for all. Our tour guide was usually rather tense, but there was no trouble. It did not take too much time either. Nothing in comparison with the old crossing into the DDR, but much more similar to road blocks in South Africa, where police search for weapons, aliens and stolen cars. It seems as if the roads in Jerusalem are under heavy construction. We saw stadiums, many high risers in beautiful white sandstone, cypress tress and hanging gardens again and again. It was all topped by blue skies and reminded me again and again of Israels national flag. (cf. Greece)
In Jerusalem we stopped on the Mount of Olives. We got off the bus and enjoyed the morning view across the old city of Jerusalem. Eayd had to get Erika on track and the rest of us moving. So, after some time, he eventually stopped a taxi and had her drive to Gethsemane and the church of all nations. We did not get to go and see the orthodox church of Mary Magdalene, but we saw its beauty from a distance. Eayd took some time to elaborate the historical site spreading before us. It started with the Jewish cemetery and ended with the many church stepples, minarettes and other landmarks in the old city.
We walked down hill between the high walls of the cemetery and the grounds of many gardens – like around the church of “Dominus flevit“. What a spectacular view and what impressive architectural design by the Italian architect Antonio Barluzzi. The place is held in trust by the Franciscan Custody of the Holy Land. No wonder so many tour groups come here to look over Jerusalem. This is really spectacular.
And when Jesus drew near and saw the city, he wept over it, 42 saying, “Would that you, even you, had known on this day the things that make for peace! But now they are hidden from your eyes. 43 For the days will come upon you, when your enemies will set up a barricade around you and surround you and hem you in on every side 44 and tear you down to the ground, you and your children within you. And they will not leave one stone upon another in you, because you did not know the time of your visitation.”
Luke 19:41-44
Moving further down the mount of Olives, we enjoyed the proximity of the church of Mary Magdalene, where the relics of two martyred saints, Grand Duchess Elizabeth Feodorovna of Russia and her fellow nun Varvara Yakovleva are displayed. The Grand Duchess is the aunt of Princess Alice of Battenberg, mother of the Duke of Edinburgh, who at her wish was buried near her aunt “Ella”. You see, Jerusalem really has serious history – and it is often closer to home, that we imagine and I don´t just mean the old Hessian connection, which is close to our Weber´s Eisenberg connection.
The Church of Mary Magdalene
After some walking this crisp spring morning, we came to the garden of Gethsemane with its ancient olive trees and wonderful church. Our guide got into trouble, because he just could not refrain from chatting away. Outside, he had warned us, that he would have to remain silent, because the priests inside the church were very strict. However, he never stopped talking and then nearly got into a brawl with the priests and the guards called in to silence him. Well, that got us all exited and nicely fluffed up. Anyway, I really liked this site and to think, that our good Lord had been here in the night, when he was betrayed…
And they came to a place which was named Gethsemane: and Jesus saith to his disciples, Sit ye here, while I shall pray. 33 And he taketh with him Peter and James and John, and began to be sore amazed, and to be very heavy; 34 And saith unto them, My soul is exceeding sorrowful unto death: tarry ye here, and watch. 35 And he went forward a little, and fell on the ground, and prayed that, if it were possible, the hour might pass from him. 36 And he said, Abba, Father, all things are possible unto thee; take away this cup from me: nevertheless not what I will, but what thou wilt. 37 And he cometh, and findeth them sleeping, and saith unto Peter, Simon, sleepest thou? couldest not thou watch one hour? 38 Watch ye and pray, lest ye enter into temptation. The spirit truly is ready, but the flesh is weak. 39 And again he went away, and prayed, and spake the same words. 40 And when he returned, he found them asleep again, (for their eyes were heavy,) neither wist they what to answer him. 41 And he cometh the third time, and saith unto them, Sleep on now, and take your rest: it is enough, the hour is come; behold, the Son of man is betrayed into the hands of sinners. 42 Rise up, let us go; lo, he that betrayeth me is at hand.
We visited the church of the holy Sepulchre, where various dominations (Orthodox, Coptic and Catholic) keep the holy site of Christ´s crucifiction and burial under muslim auspices. It is quite a business, but I got to shake the Ethiopian patriarch´s hand. Some might think the various churches are just a curse, but I think, there might actually be a blessing in it too. “No lording it over others” for one, and they can act as check and balances to prevent the dominance of one and promote the true service of “feet washing” for those waiting to pray at this holy site.
An upper room, where Jesus is supposed to have instituted his supper, later served a bleak mosque. Down below is the tomb of King David – an active synagog and we see the Tower of David. Ongoing the struggle for meaning – just as St. John points out:
Many of the people therefore, when they heard this saying, said, Of a truth this is the Prophet. 41 Others said, This is the Christ. But some said, Shall Christ come out of Galilee? 42 Hath not the scripture said, That Christ cometh of the seed of David, and out of the town of Bethlehem, where David was? 43 So there was a division among the people because of him.
John 7:40-43
The many sights and sounds in Jerusalem are rather overwhelming and words hardly do justice to the drama that has unfolded here – then and over the ages. We move on to Jaffa Gate and try to understand, what we are experiencing. Sometimes listening in on the audiobook read by John Lee: Simon Sebag Montefiore´s “Jerusalem. The Biography”. This depicts masterfully the many layers Jerusalem consists of. Moving around the old city is just like scratching around in the dust even as below are literally countless layers of history covered up and hidden from sight. There are lots of reasons to return to Jerusalem again and again. It actually felt to me like reading the Bible in another dimension, that had previously eluded me, but it encourages me to read the holy Scriptures more carefully and diligently than before. After all, we Lutherans did not just defend the sola scriptura against the traditional papists, but also against those, still waiting for the Messiah plus those, who deny the divinity of God´s only begotten Son conceived by the Holy Spirit and born of the holy Mother of God – Mary of Nazareth. Obviously it is quite an uphill battle to argue against the muslims, who occupy the Temple Mount and imposed their prayer places at the centre of the world. A serious “theologia crucis” is called for – just as Bo Giertz did paradigmatically in his moving novel: “The Knights of Rhodos.” If at Stammtisch in Wittenberg these discussions might seem pretty far from reality, walking around Jerusalem pushes these crucial issues right into Your face. There is no way around it. Face it. High time to polish up on my Hebrew. That seems a life long task and I am glad, that it is still day to read, learn and contemplate God´s living Word, which remains for ever.
Back in Bethlehem, the city of David, where the little baby Jesus was born, we go down on our knees and enter the magnificent church of the Nativity – finally. Obviously, we should have also visited the fields, where the shepherds had watched over their flocks when the angel host appeard to them. Eusebius comments how even back in his days, they were arguing about the exact location. Sounds much like theologians today arguing about where Luther nailed those Theses. It was a long day and I am looking forward to the next one, hoping one day to visit the Bethlehem outskirts and walk those pastures with Beduin shepherds. Perhaps they are Christian to this day? After all it is decisive as St. Peter points out:
Then Peter, filled with the Holy Ghost, said unto them, Ye rulers of the people, and elders of Israel, 9 If we this day be examined of the good deed done to the impotent man, by what means he is made whole; 10 Be it known unto you all, and to all the people of Israel, that by the name of Jesus Christ of Nazareth, whom ye crucified, whom God raised from the dead, even by him doth this man stand here before you whole. 11 This is the stone which was set at nought of you builders, which is become the head of the corner. 12 Neither is there salvation in any other: for there is none other name under heaven given among men, whereby we must be saved.
Fürchte dich nicht! Ich bin der Erste und der Letzte und der Lebendige. Ich war tot, und siehe, ich bin lebendig von Ewigkeit zu Ewigkeit und habe die Schlüssel des Todes und der Hölle.
Offenbarung 1,17-18
Antiphonary (Italy, Milan 15th century): “Risen Christ in the Tomb” (Cleveland Museum of Art)
Wir singen das lutherischen Osterlied:
So feiern wir das hoh Fest mit Herzensfreud und Wonne, das uns der Herr scheinen lässt. Er ist selber die Sonne, der durch seiner Gnaden Glanz erleucht’ unsre Herzen ganz; der Sünden Nacht ist vergangen. Halleluja.
Wir essen und leben wohl, zum süßen Brot geladen; der alte Sau’rteig nicht soll sein bei dem Wort der Gnaden. Christus will die Kost uns sein und speisen die Seel allein; der Glaub will keins andern leben. Halleluja.
Nach dem mittelalterlichen “Victimae paschali laudes” des Wipo (990-1048) und dem vorreformatorischen Liede “Christ ist erstanden” von Martin Luther 1524 (LKG 156,6-7)
Fortlaufende Lese
Jedermann sei untertan der Obrigkeit, die Gewalt über ihn hat. Denn es ist keine Obrigkeit außer von Gott; wo aber Obrigkeit ist, ist sie von Gott angeordnet. 2 Darum: Wer sich der Obrigkeit widersetzt, der widerstrebt Gottes Anordnung; die ihr aber widerstreben, werden ihr Urteil empfangen. 3 Denn die Gewalt haben, muss man nicht fürchten wegen guter, sondern wegen böser Werke. Willst du dich aber nicht fürchten vor der Obrigkeit, so tue Gutes, dann wirst du Lob von ihr erhalten. 4 Denn sie ist Gottes Dienerin, dir zugut. Tust du aber Böses, so fürchte dich; denn sie trägt das Schwert nicht umsonst. Sie ist Gottes Dienerin und vollzieht die Strafe an dem, der Böses tut. 5 Darum ist es notwendig, sich unterzuordnen, nicht allein um der Strafe, sondern auch um des Gewissens willen. 6 Deshalb zahlt ihr ja auch Steuer; denn sie sind Gottes Diener, auf diesen Dienst beständig bedacht. 7 So gebt nun jedem, was ihr schuldig seid: Steuer, dem die Steuer gebührt; Zoll, dem der Zoll gebührt; Furcht, dem die Furcht gebührt; Ehre, dem die Ehre gebührt.
Römer 13, 1-7
Tageslese
Denn auch Christus hat einmal für die Sünden gelitten, der Gerechte für die Ungerechten, damit er euch zu Gott führte; er ist getötet nach dem Fleisch, aber lebendig gemacht nach dem Geist. 19 In ihm ist er auch hingegangen und hat gepredigt den Geistern im Gefängnis, 20 die einst ungehorsam waren, als Gott in Geduld ausharrte zur Zeit Noahs, als man die Arche baute, in der wenige, nämlich acht Seelen, gerettet wurden durchs Wasser hindurch. 21 Das ist ein Vorbild der Taufe, die jetzt auch euch rettet. Denn in ihr wird nicht der Schmutz vom Leib abgewaschen, sondern wir bitten Gott um ein gutes Gewissen, durch die Auferstehung Jesu Christi, 22 welcher ist zur Rechten Gottes, aufgefahren gen Himmel, und es sind ihm untertan die Engel und die Gewalten und die Mächte.
1. Petrus 3,18-22
Wir beten mit der heiligen Christenheit:
Herr, Gott himmlischer Vater, der Du Deinen eingeborenen Sohn um unserer Sünde willen hingegeben und uns zur Gerechtigkeit hast wieder auferwecket, wir bitten Deine Barmherzigkeit, Du wollest unsere Herzen durch Deinen Geist zu neuem Leben erwecken und unsere Leiber dort mit Christus ewig lebendig machen. Durch Jesus Christus unseren Herrn, der mit Dir und dem Heiligen Geist, ein wahrer Gott, lebet und regieret in Ewigkeit. Amen.
Orate fratres S.131f
Es segne und behüte Euch Gott, der allmächtige und barmherzige, der Vater, Sohn + Heiliger Geist
From Bethlehem we went up to Jerusalem and then down to Jericho – quite opposite to the direction taken by the good Samaritan. We had Masada, Qumran with the “Dead Sea scrolls“, the Dead Sea and Jericho on our agenda. Much to do and on a very tight schedule.
We started off with tasing some of the local specialities: Medjoul dates from Jericho. Quite delicious! The views along the road were magnificent. We travelled through arid mountains. Beduin camps here and there. Sometimes we saw goat herds. Sometimes off roaders conquering the landscape. Down at sea level, we turned off to the South and headed down along the Qumran mountains on the right/west having the Dead Sea on the other side. We saw flocks of storks, eagles, hawks and other birds, but also serious erosion – much like in desert landscapes anywhere.
Masada was a great attraction at the bottom of the Dead Sea. I would have surely run up the mountain if I had been on my own, but now we took the cable car, which made for some impressive vistas across the Dead Sea. It took some time before I checked the airport, but the ongoing surveillance flights made it impossible to oversee it indefinitely. The fortress of Masada is impressive, just as the Jewish resistance movement, which takes up the cry of the defenders in the Warsaw ghetto: “Never again without resistance!” and “We won´t go down without resistance!” – and therefore, “Never again a Masada!” Committing suicide and doing the work for the aggressor, is just not an option for any independent nation and people. Strange how relevant these slogans remain even as big bullies like Russia continue to through their weight around, terrorizing and committing genocide against independent nations like Georgia, Ukraine and Crimea just because they think, that they can get away with murder.
After Lunch in Qumran, we went to swim in the Dead Sea. I would have really liked to visit the Jordan Archaeological Museum in Amman or even the Jordan Museum in Ras al Ein, but that did not work out this time. It´s part of the conundrum of this political war zone, where the Arabs just don´t give the Jews space to breathe.
In Jericho we did most sightseeing from the bus – like the tree of Zacchaeus. Still, we did get out to see the site of Jesus temptation up where the cloister is today. We did not land up in a political demonstration nor in a protest march of any kind. That counts for obvious blessings +
Back in Bethlehem, we had supper. Enjoyed the company of our fellow German tourists and then decided to go up to the church of the Nativity with some eager beavers from our group. This time we went into the proper direction and crossed the Hebron Road and followed the narrow street to our goal. Along the way a German protestant church in “Children´s street” was hosting the same “Bethlehem singers”, that had previously entertained us up in Nazareth. The church was also full with listeners, but not even close to the number praying outside the mosque up in town this Ramadan. We got to the church of the nativity, which was all closed up at this time. I imagine, it the Franciscan convent, which operates a guesthouse there, could be a very convenient venue for a longer visit in future. We enjoyed fresh fruit – like the luquats (Wollmispel) – from the street vendors. My german friends did not know them. We were reminded of home.
Der auferstandene Herr Jesus Christus spricht: “Pax vobiscum.”
Fürchte dich nicht! Ich bin der Erste und der Letzte und der Lebendige. Ich war tot, und siehe, ich bin lebendig von Ewigkeit zu Ewigkeit und habe die Schlüssel des Todes und der Hölle.
Es war ein wunderlich Krieg, da Tod und Leben ‘rungen; das Leben behielt den Sieg, es hat den Tod verschlungen. Die Schrift hat verkündet das, wie ein Tod den andern fraß, ein Spott aus dem Tod ist worden. Halleluja.
Hier ist das recht Osterlamm, davon Gott hat geboten, das ist an des Kreuzes Stamm in heißer Lieb gebraten. Des Blut zeichnet unsre Tür, das hält der Glaub dem Tod für, der Würger kann uns nicht rühren. Halleluja.
Nach dem mittelalterlichen “Victimae paschali laudes” des Wipo (990-1048) und dem vorreformatorischen Liede “Christ ist erstanden” von Martin Luther 1524 (LKG 156,4-5)
Fortlaufende Lese
Vergeltet niemandem Böses mit Bösem. Seid auf Gutes bedacht gegenüber jedermann. 18 Ist’s möglich, soviel an euch liegt, so habt mit allen Menschen Frieden. 19 Rächt euch nicht selbst, meine Lieben, sondern gebt Raum dem Zorn Gottes; denn es steht geschrieben: »Die Rache ist mein; ich will vergelten, spricht der Herr.« 20 Vielmehr, »wenn deinen Feind hungert, so gib ihm zu essen; dürstet ihn, so gib ihm zu trinken. Wenn du das tust, so wirst du feurige Kohlen auf sein Haupt sammeln« 21 Lass dich nicht vom Bösen überwinden, sondern überwinde das Böse mit Gutem.
Römer 12:17-21
Tageslese
Maria aber stand draußen vor dem Grab und weinte. Als sie nun weinte, beugte sie sich in das Grab hinein 12 und sieht zwei Engel in weißen Gewändern sitzen, einen zu Häupten und den andern zu den Füßen, wo der Leichnam Jesu gelegen hatte. 13 Und die sprachen zu ihr: Frau, was weinst du? Sie spricht zu ihnen: Sie haben meinen Herrn weggenommen, und ich weiß nicht, wo sie ihn hingelegt haben. 14 Und als sie das sagte, wandte sie sich um und sieht Jesus stehen und weiß nicht, dass es Jesus ist. 15 Spricht Jesus zu ihr: Frau, was weinst du? Wen suchst du? Sie meint, es sei der Gärtner, und spricht zu ihm: Herr, hast du ihn weggetragen, so sage mir: Wo hast du ihn hingelegt? Dann will ich ihn holen. 16 Spricht Jesus zu ihr: Maria! Da wandte sie sich um und spricht zu ihm auf Hebräisch: Rabbuni!, das heißt: Meister! 17 Spricht Jesus zu ihr: Rühre mich nicht an! Denn ich bin noch nicht aufgefahren zum Vater. Geh aber hin zu meinen Brüdern und sage ihnen: Ich fahre auf zu meinem Vater und eurem Vater, zu meinem Gott und eurem Gott. 18 Maria Magdalena geht und verkündigt den Jüngern: »Ich habe den Herrn gesehen«, und was er zu ihr gesagt habe.
Johannes 20:11-18
Wir beten mit der heiligen Christenheit:
Herr, Gott himmlischer Vater, der Du Deinen eingeborenen Sohn um unserer Sünde willen hingegeben und uns zur Gerechtigkeit hast wieder auferwecket, wir bitten Deine Barmherzigkeit, Du wollest unsere Herzen durch Deinen Geist zu neuem Leben erwecken und unsere Leiber dort mit Christus ewig lebendig machen. Durch Jesus Christus unseren Herrn, der mit Dir und dem Heiligen Geist, ein wahrer Gott, lebet und regieret in Ewigkeit. Amen.
Orate fratres S.131f
Es segne und behüte Euch Gott, der allmächtige und barmherzige, der Vater, Sohn + Heiliger Geist +
Sunday morning in Nazareth gets started with a lot of bells and ringing. The loud cries of the muezzin for Friday prayers are nearly forgotten. The Sabbath is over and it is the new day, the Lord has made. We are on the road early. So early in fact, that the priest at Cana´s church, where Jesus changed water into wine is not even back yet from the bakery. We stand in front of closed doors. The sign reads, that the church is closed on Sundays. That is a disappointment. Throughout town they advertise the wine from Cana, but the church is locked. I go up and down the narrow isle, hoping to catch a better glimpse of this site, where Jesus performed his first miracle. That is where I come across the priest with the buns and rolls from the bakery. We get him to open up and suddenly, the day looks even brighter.
From Cana we leave for the Sea of Galilee (See Genezareth). It is very much like travelling the high veld. Lots of green pastures, rough mountains, plantations and fields. We have got a number of sights to see on this Sunday – all of which featured prominently in the life of our Lord Jesus Christ. First we go to the sight, where he proclaimed the sermon of the Mount. The place is owned by the Catholics. They have put up an impressive chapel on the Mount of the Beatitudes. There were African rose-ringed parakeets up in the palm trees, lots of blooming orange trees and visitors from all over. I talked to groups from Porto Rico (Spanish) and from South Korea. They were all treading in Jesus footsteps. For me that was one of the highlights. Jesus calling his disciples on the beach of the Sea of Galilee – down at the orthodox chapel – and sending them to the ends of the world. Now, centuries later, I stand here where it all started and witness people coming from the very ends of the earth to see, what they believe.
The chapel of the Beatitudes has some nice mosaics and impressive views across the lake below – right across to the Golan heights in the East, but also over to Tiberias on the West coast. The place is expansive and I am so glad, that the Roman catholics and Greek Orthodox plus Armenians and other Christian sects take good care of these historic places – and we as Lutherans are not just left with some stark and empty muslim shrines like on the temple mount in Jerusalem. Here You can see the mosaic depicting bread and fish, where Jesus miraculously feed more than five thousand men without counting woman and children.
Down at the lake the Greek orthodox run a monastery of the holy Apostles, where Jesus sent out his disciples asking St. Peter thrice: “Do You love me?” I really like this church in its beautiful garden setting along the shores of the lake: “In 1995-2000, the church was painted by the Greek artist Konstantin Dzumakis. The walls of the church depict gospel scenes, many of which took place in Capernaum and its environs: the calming of the storm, Jesus walking on water, the amazing catch of fish from John 21, and Jesus healing the sick.”
Next door is an impressive Franciscan monastery, which takes care of the ruins at Capernaum and St. Peter´s Church there too. It´s situated on the site of St. Peter´s mother-in-law´s house. There are many ruins to be seen too. The old synagogue, which also suffered serious damage in the earth quakes of yesteryear (749 A.D). We drove to a nice park along the sea – ate “Peter´s fish” and even joined a boat tour on the lake. What a splash! That was before we got to some place along a river, where American Baptists go for their emotional washings. There were seriously big carp and barbel in the river, some beautiful birds in the trees, but the Baptists got most attention.
From here we left for Bethlehem in the South. It took some time. We visited a Kibbutz on the way. Very impressive dairy business and we got into a heated discussion on how happy cows should be in providing milk for the nations.
We drove through parts of the W.Bank, came down to Jericho, saw Beduin settlements, Israeli settlers too and drove up to Jerusalem and into the walled-off areas of Bethlehem, where we would stay the next three nights. The security doors and gates impressed me. They were often well crafted, heavy metal without anything to grip on, but mostly depicting crosses or other religious signs to show the affiliation of the owner. The signs were clear – and Cape Town is but 7, 517km away.
The first night in the Hotel “Nativity” Angelika and I walked through down town Bethlehem. This was quite a walk. We wanted to find the church of our Lord´s nativity, but I went off in the wrong direction, so in the end we found plenty churches, monasteries and christian schools, but not church of the nativity. It was perfectly safe even if the cars went about at breakneck speeds, the pavements were often blocked by men in black selling green almonds, smoking some tobacco, drinking coffee and discussing this or that in Palestinian/Arabic. At some fruit shop I tried to get directions. The young salesman did not get my English. So, that did not go far. Another boy tried to scare the shit out of us by exploding his crackers just behind our backs. Nothing serious, but he still had us nearly jump out of our skins. The next shots were then somewhat expected and nothing half as frightening as the first surprising ones. Somewhere in down town, we got some water. The salesman kept fifty shekels back, but when I complained to his old man, he quickly handed the rest of change over. Probably he thought, that he could get away with robbing a stupid tourist, but I was not having any of that kind of daylight robbery. Not even close to midnight in Bethlehem.
Wilhelm's space 